What's Cara Cooking? Gisele's Charoseth
Passover in our house is hardly traditional.
I was raised as a cultural Jew — not religious. We didn't go to services, and I never really learned the prayers, the rules, the rituals. The Jewish holidays in my home are built around traditions I created myself, ones that feel meaningful to me, my family, and the loved ones we gather around the table.
While I change the seder every year- updating it to reflect the state of the world, a few things remain constant- it must include Gisele’s Charoset: the sweet paste on the Seder plate that symbolizes the mortar enslaved Jews used to build the pyramids. And it belonged to one of the most remarkable people I've ever known.
Gisele was born in Egypt. She lived in Paris, then Montreal, then finally Philadelphia, where I had the privilege of caring for her for over 30 years — until her death several years ago. She was an athlete, a vegetarian long before it was fashionable, multilingual, warm, and full of joy. Over the decades, we grew as close as family.
Every year, she gave me a jar of her charoseth — a Sephardic recipe I imagine she learned from her mother. Every year I asked how she made it. Every year she'd say: "Oh, I put some dates in the water with some cinnamon. Maybe some lemon. Sometimes I add wine..." The recipe, of course, lived entirely in her head. No matter how carefully I listened, I couldn't nail it.
After her death, the thought of a Seder without her charoseth on the table made me want to quit Passover altogether.
Thankfully, towards the end of her life, she taught her daughters and they wrote it on an index card.
Standing at my stove, I said out loud: "Gisele — you gotta help me out." And you know what? It was really close.I like to think she would have been proud of me.
Here it is. I hope you love it as much as I do.
May we all be happy and free.
With love, Cara
Gisele's Sephardic Charoseth
Makes enough for a Seder — and then some. Freezes beautifully.
Ingredients
2 lbs pitted dates
1 cup raisins
2 tsp ground cinnamon
Juice of half a lemon
1 cup walnuts, coarsely chopped
Method
Place dates and raisins in a pot and cover with water. Red wine, sherry, or Madeira can be added to the cooking water for depth. A strip of lemon peel simmered with the dates (removed before puréeing) adds a lovely brightness. Bring the fruit to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Skim any foam that rises to the top.
Simmer for 20 minutes, then add cinnamon and lemon juice.
Cook another 15 minutes. Reserve the cooking water.
Transfer to a food processor in batches of no more than 2 cups at a time. Pulse to a rough purée — don't over-process.! Whatever you do, don’t make my first time mistake of putting the walnuts in at this stage. It results in an unappealing paste.
If you choose to, you can toast the walnuts. but this step isn’t necessary. Fold in the chopped walnuts by hand. If the mixture is too firm, add a splash of cooking water to loosen.
Notes: Red wine, sherry, or Madeira can be added to the cooking water for depth. A strip of lemon peel simmered with the dates (removed before puréeing) adds a lovely brightness.
Schmear on matzah with horseradish. Eat. Remember.
